Devil’s Lake Rock Climbing – A Heaven for Climbers
If you are looking for a great rock-climbing destination, Devil’s Park can be just what you want, if you haven’t yet visited it. This is a state park in Wisconsin featuring some of the most amazing rock climbing spots in the Midwest. There are superb quartzite rock cliffs here of heights of a hundred and above feet in a spectacular setting that can entice any ardent climber. All in all, you’ll find numerous climbable rocks in the park.
Devils Lake rock climbing has even attracted famous climbers like John Gill, Eric Zschieschie, Jim Erickson, and Joe and Paul Stettner. The legendary Pete Cleveland hailed from this very area and formed some exceptional routes including Superpin and Son of Great Chimney.
Devil’s Lake has well-protected leads, expansive toproping and some more challenging “headpoint” type leads. You’ll get extensive bouldering here though a little spread out.
You may find that some climbs are “reserved” for extended stretches; however, climbers are usually willing to share the rocks upon a friendly request.
Rocks and Rock Climbing
You should remember that the quartzite rock here is amazing to look at, but it can be slippery too. Rock climbing in Wisconsin is traditional. The Lake lacks bolted routes and therefore if you are a sport climber, you may be dissatisfied.
However, Devil’s Lake perhaps contains more quality moderate climbs than anywhere else in the country. It also contains several well-protected leads. More challenging climbs are often attempted on Devils Lake top rope anchors and are led when and if they are wired.
It’s needless to say that Devil’s Lake has wonderful bouldering. From the neo classics at the Reserve to the time-honored problems at Tombstone Rocks such as the awesome Leaning Tower, there are so many areas that are worthwhile.
The area contains multiple cliffs including the South Bluff, the East Bluff, the West Bluff and the Sandstone Bluff. The East Bluff and the West Bluff areas have the highest number of routes.
The most popular climbing area is the East Rampart, a quarter-mile long cliff band, which has the highest number of climbs at the park. Here you’ll find some of the longest and finest climbs in the area. But you may find them often crowded.
If you have planned a multi-day trip or if a certain day is non-climbing, don’t worry. The area is bestowed with such a beautiful lake, where you can do fishing, non-motorized boating and diving too.
So, when are you planning a trip to Devil’s Lake?